Thursday, New Year's eve day On Wed, we took another day tour, this time to Dudhsager Waterfalls. We boarded a huge coach bus (35 people on board) around 8:30 am and drove 2 hours, where jeeps were waiting for us. 6 people and a driver per jeep. There were other tour groups that converged in this tiny village for the jeep ride, the falls are located in the Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary, a National park in our terms. Off we went on a jostling, bone crunching, hot and sweaty 45 minute ride to a rocky trail.. 15 minute hike and we, along with about 100 other people were in a beautiful setting. The falls drop 1000 feet in front, underneath a railway bridge about half way up. Water was cold and refreshing after our long travels to the place. About an hour at the falls and then it was the jeep ride back and half hour bus ride to a very secluded Nature Retreat where we were the only group there for lunch. It was a Goan lunch, similar to the one last week, fish and chicken chunks in sauces, cabbage salad, papadam(a very spicy crispy, thin bread) bananas, rice and
lady finger (okra) marinated salad. On our way back, the bus was stopped and not allowed to go the road to anyone's hotel. The roads were packed with vehicles and they were not allowing any large vehicles in. They said something about it being a safety precaution,in the event of any terrorist type activity they want all vehicles to have away out. LArge buses wouldn't be able to leave quickly. So the bus halfway pulled into a field, we were let out, he turned around pulled back in the opposite direction and we loaded in again and took a very round about route back to our hotel. We were an hour and a half late getting back ( 7:30 instead of 6:00 pm) but all in all a fun day. The falls are located on the far western border of Goa, the smallest state and most heavily touristed state in India. We were on the border of Kharatakan (or something like that) the next state east of Goa. The capital of Goa is Panjim, mostly that is the name on most maps for Goa. Our plans for Catherine's birthday dinner last night were put on hold due to us missing our dinner reservation. So we are going to "Over the Flames) a wonderful restaurant very close to the hotel. We have ordered lobster (yea...!!!) and will eat around 9:00 and stay for the "Sword Man" and New Year's celebrations there. You cannot believe how crowed Goa has become and the hugeness of New Year's is more than I've ever seen (not that I've participated in many celebrations but just knowing what is done in cities, this seems to beat ALL!!) Decorations galore, roads, restraurants, resorts and beaches crowded beyond anything you can imagine.
Happy New Year everyone!! Love, Sandy

Tuesday, 29th Dec. Last night we had a wonderful dinner on the beach at one of the small beach shacks that are all up and down on the beach. It was our best meal of grilled Pomfret yet!! Stars were mostly out, almost a full moon and many, many lights of the numerous ships that are offshore from Goa, mainly cargo ships and oil tankers from what I hear. I counted 32 one day, all about 5-6 miles off shore.
Weather has been a bit cloudy but still hot and humid. STILL no rain since arriving here on the 13th of Dec. A big fireworks display on Christmas night wasn't stopped due to dryness! Sparks flying everywhere in the trees... no worries... I guess!
More later. Sandy

Christmas day dawned hot and sunny. Very, very strange setting for us, no snow or ice just palm trees and hot temps! The inn had a spectacular dinner they had been preparing for, for 2+ days. About 10 tables with food in the area between the bar and pool. Then tables were all set up on the front lawn, in front of the pool. Many,many decorations and it was very festive. Lots of Goan, hiphop and Bollywood dancing - very entertaining! Sandy

Christmas Eve, 6:15 pm Greetings!! On Wednesday we went about a half hour taxi ride, to the Anjuna Flea Market. Or Hippie Market, as it is mostly called. It is only on Wednesdays and is quite a show. The largest I certainly have ever seen, hundreds of vendors on the beach and off...great people watching!

Today we went about an hour ride with a tour group to the Sahakari Spice Farm. We were greeting with a bindi being put on our forehead and a beautiful flower lei.
Lemon grass tea and cashews and off to take an elephant ride!! Catherine's dream came true! We rode a 14 year old elephant, smaller than the other one, that was 48 years old. Then to a stream where a third elephant lay in the water waiting for us to scrub her. When I say water, well I'm not really sure what it was. Upon coming closer, the smell was overwhelming and I think it basically was wastewater...
We scrubbed the elephant then two people at a time got on the back of her and got a "power shower" About 4 litres from her trunk were sprayed full force over her back on us... needless to say we kept our mouths and eyes closed. It was quite something, cold water as well but dingy brownish, yellowish, gray in color... sorry hope you're not going to eat Christmas dinner after reading this!! We had that done about 5 times, the elephant handler had a twinkle in his eye when we got off, cuz he did it to us more than anyone!! What a character! After the elephant ride we went back to the eating place where we had fried potatoes, bread and a drink. Then off on an hour long tour of the spice plantation. There was everything growing there: cinnamon, cloves, tumeric, cardommon, cashews (not in season yet), allspice, nutmeg,
etc... We got to smell each spice and try to identify it.We ended the tour with a ladle full of citronella water (cold) being poured down our neck and back.. it felt wonderful, as it was quite hot! Back to the eating shelter AGAIN where a fabulous buffet meal was waiting for us. We began the meal with a shot of cashew fenny. It's an alcohol made from cashews. There is also coconut fenny. I had tried both the other night, as our dinner waiter here at the hotel couldn't believe we had been here a week and not tried it. The stuff one gets in a bar is much more harsh than what we had today. Either way it smells like paint thinner and burns the whole way down. Well down the hatch went the fenny and then on to a fabulous meal of: fried prawns (in cornmeal and many spices), rice, curry chicken, curry vegetables, dal (lentils in curry) squash, cooked cabbage with a wonderful coconut dressing, watermelon, pineapple, a marzipan-like thing and icecream!!! And now... we have to go eat again!! The tour was great, many close calls in the van driving too and from.
A lady from England was sitting across the isle from me clenching the seat and saying "Blood 'ell" every time we had a near death experience... it kept the humor in the whole situation!!
We are off to dinner at 9:00 (yawn!!) to a restaurant that has a sword thrower and
flame eater for entertainment!
Wish I could post pictures as we got lots today but don't worry, we'll do them soon.
Merry Christmas everyone!! Sandy

Wed. 11:16 am 23rd. The last couple days have been relatively cloudy but still hot,
highs of 34 degrees C! A bald eagle flew over the beach yesterday. A herd of cows
strolled right down the beach too. By the time I ran to get my camera, all but four had disappeared. The four, settled right down and I got great pictures...People constantly hound us at the beach to buy things, clothing, fruit, little boys drumming while their even smaller sisters dance for money, little boys wanting people to sign certificates for them, not sure what they are for, I"ve not done it.... and on and on. More Christmas decorations each day. The groundskeeper spent 2 days making the most incredible naitivity, bamboo with grass woven in and all of the
characters, minus Baby Jesus, who will be placed on Christmas morning.
No Americans here. At meals we hear all kinds of languages but mainly Finnish and Swedish, also many Brits here. When people from India ask us where we are from, we say "America." Their reply, even with little English is ALWAYS: "Oh, Obama..., he is good man..." With the heat and palm trees, it doesn't feel like Christmas but certainly the decorations and music is putting us in the spirit! Our very best to all for wonderful holidays, Merry Christmas and a happy and healthy New Year.
Catherine and Sandy

Monday am 12/21 Weather continues to be cloudless each day and very hot. Christmas
music plays each morning and during most of the day, where meals are served. Seems
unusual being in such a hot climate during Christmas. Was there a big storm along
the east coast? Heard Washington got 16", go Fred... how's the shovelling? What about NH/VT??

Lynne, if you read this... have you gotten my emails about needing email addresses from some folks? I am receiving a few emails through "myemail.com" but not sure they are going through to people when I send them. I'm still having problems logging on to comcast.net. Did you get that email about helping me with that situation?
Thanks, Lynneeeeee!

The orphanage trip last Sat. (the 12th) was filled with mixed emotions. Sadness to see the 35 residents, ages 4-17, joy, in knowing they will be happy with the clothes, frustration, leaving and feeling it almost impossible to change their situation.
The gentleman who runs it is Ashish. He greeted us at the door. IT's located on the top of a mountain above Catherine's school, we took a cab up and walked down. The boys all came out. We didn't see the few girls who are there. We took pictures, other students from Woodstock came with us. The little boys started roughhousing, trying to show off! I met one boy whose name is Sandeep and he took me all over to tell everyone that I had the same name as him, Sandy!! He is 11. I have a picture to post of him later. His head is shaved because, he decided he would convince the barber to shave it from ear to ear over the top. Then it looked so ridiculous that Ashish made him shave the whole thing! He is a rascal, says Ashish! I had a chance to spend some time alone with Ashish and spoke with him about the boys. He said most are there until they are 17, they try to get them trained in a vocation, so they are able to live on their own and support themselves. The last two years he was not able to have Christmas presents for any of the residents. He said his prayers were answered when we came to the door with the huge bag of clothes. He was going to wrap up a present for each one of them to have under the tree.
Train travel in India is something. I pulled up a map of train travel before I left and the routes completely cover India. However, when our train pulled up at the Dehradun station, it looked as if many people had whacked it ALL over with sledgehammers. They are far from the sleek Amtrak trains of the US. Windows have bars on them, if they need to be closed, a plastic white"window" can be pulled down.
The smell is quite pungent, they are incredibly old and still dispose of waste on the tracks once out of the station. They are on amazingly on time, though. Even early. I"ve never been on an "ontime" Amtrak train!
Catherine has been careful not to let me eat from street vendors until my stomach gets acclimated. In Mussorie, she got her 2 favorite things from an open food place:
gulab jamun and something else -= dough dropped in grease and fried, coming out like a translucent pretzel and dripping with grease! Gulabs are round balls, deep fried and then soaked in a sweet syrup for 30 minutes or so... yummmmm I'm sticking with the restaurant food for now... Although I have enough Immodium and pepto to stock the entire city of Delhi, if need be....More later... Sandy